I'll continue making blog posts, but I wanted to go ahead and post this slideshow of some of my favorite people pictures from the trip.

Enjoy!

Lily





I've had a hard time uploading photos. I'm hoping I'll be able to post a few from Thursday, May 1, our first day in Iran. I'll continue writing about the trip and posting entries here. I plan to have more entries up by Tuesday afternoon, so please keep checking in.

Here is a photo of the Armenian Christian Church that was located in the same complex as the Arch Bishop's offices.


Funeral preparations were taking place as we exited the courtyard--notice the enormous flower arrangements around the outside of the church.



After our meeting at the Armenian Christian Church, we went back to the hotel. There, several of the young adults in the group had an interview with Channel 1 TV. I'll write more about that in my next post.

Following the interview, we had our first of many lunches at Tehran's Hotel Howeyzeh. Here are some shots of the delicious kabobs we had that afternoon.





Some of the group members opted for a mid-afternoon nap, others of us went for an adventure at Valiasr, the longest street in the Middle East. Again, I will write more later about the Valiasr adventure--including reflections of my first (and only) cab ride in Iran and more. For now, here are some pictures to wet your appetite!








We arrived at Imam Khomeni Airport in Tehran on Thursday, May 1, 2008 around 2:30 a.m. Time didn't really matter then because we were all so jet lagged anyway. But I suppose it was the adrenaline that kept us awake during the next two hours at the airport. We presented our passports at customs and preceded to have our fingerprints stamped. Then, as mentioned in an previous post, we waited. None of us really know why we waited. Perhaps it was just a bureaucratic thing--it will always be left to speculation, I suppose.

I think we left the airport around 4:30 a.m. After loading our bags, and leaving the airport, we eventually made our way to the early morning traffic of the enormous city of Tehran. According to Wikipedia.org, a 2006 census estimated Tehran's population at 11 million, I believe I heard 14 million on the trip.

I still have vivid memories of that drive. I was exhausted, but seeing the city for the first time was exhilarating! I remember being excited as I saw the street lights along the freeway and imagined discussions in which I explained this new city to people back home! I even counted the lanes of traffic so I'd be able to say something like "There are 5 lanes of traffic going one way; they look just like highways look in the US." I nervously observed our bus driver closing in on a couple of men driving a scooter/small motorcycle. He'd flash his lights to signal them to move out of his way. The distance between our bus and the scooter increased and decreased several times before the bus driver finally sped past them. Our delegation became fond of sayings like "Lane markings and traffic laws are just suggestions in Iran!" People frequently straddle the dotted white lines with their cars. Though the average blood pressure of FOR Civilian Diplomats probably increased as a result of observing the seemingly crazy traffic of Iranian streets, highways and freeways, it (almost) always seemed to work out in the end.

We drove from south of South Tehran where the airport is located all the way to Howeyzeh Hotel in Central Tehran. Howeyzeh is a four-star hotel. I'm not mentioning that to impress or brag. Just to note that there is such a thing in Iran. I don't really care about having complimentary shoe shining kits, slippers or bathrobes, but the beds were comfortable, the showers were nice and, no, I wasn't sleeping next to a camel stall.

Shortly after we arrived in our hotel rooms (around 5:30), we learned that a meeting was scheduled for later that morning. We would meet in the main lobby of the hotel at 10:30 a.m. So, we slept for a few hours, got up and headed to the office of Arch Bishop Sebouh Sarkissian of the Armenian Christian Church in Tehran.

We walked several blocks to the gated entrance of the meeting location.

Upon entering, we hurried through a giant courtyard with a beautiful church to an office building and climbed the stairs to the formal meeting room. High back chairs and fancy tea tables (one for every two chairs) lined the walls of the room so that we were sitting on the edges of a giant, square "U" with the Arch Bishop in the center. We stood out of respect as he entered the room, something we would do numerous times in the weeks to come.

The Arch Bishop started with background information about the Armenian Christian Church in Iran. There are three dioceses in Iran, they are centered in Tabriz, Esfahan and Tehran. The Armenian population in Iran is decreasing. This started before the revolution, but "since the revolution, migration has become an unfortunate phenomenon." There are presently 100,000 Armenians in Iran--80,000 living in Tehran.

Arch Bishop Sarkissian spoke of the importance of dialogue--particularly dialogue between Christians and Muslims. I felt as though I were back in Conflict Resolution, reading Fisher and Ury at Earlham as Sarkissian spoke of the importance of recognizing fundamental differences from the beginning, moving beyond those differences and building dialogue on commonalities.

We must recognize our theological differences and move beyond them, he advised, and build relationships and conversations on "human issues" such as justice, peace, poverty, and modernity.

"[The present lack of] peace in the Middle East has nothing to do with religion, he said." "It is a political issue, related to Israel, Palestine and surrounding countries. All religions call for peace, mutual respect, love, understanding, and for living together." This would be the first of many times that the Israel Palestine conflict was mentioned in conversations on the trip.

He went on to say that the Bush Administration is playing a tragic role in the Middle East. "If countries are trying to bring peace, they must take into consideration the needs and desires of people living in the region. Iraq has become another Vietnam for the United States."

Tea was served. Then, delicious pastries.

Coming from the United States, where peace is so often dismissed as a flighty dream, it was encouraging to hear the Arch Bishop speak words I deeply believe: "Discussions of peace and humanity are concrete." Meaning, again, that the human interests are something we all share while political debates, discussions, and actions are clouded by ulterior motives and interests.

Later in the conversation, Arch Bishop Sarkissian called to question the hypocrisy of the US denying a high level religious leader a visa as he attempted to travel to New York in August 2000 for a conference of world religions. (I've done some research in an attempt to determine which conference he was referring to and think it must have been the Millennium World Peace Summit of Religious and Spiritual Leaders. It took place at the UN in August 2000 and drew over 1000 religious leaders from around the world.)

As I worked on this entry and reviewed my notes from the meeting, I was taken back to the thought provoking topics we covered. Group members who had been on similar delegations in the past expressed some frustration with the very "safe" nature of the conversation and a desire to have explore more controversial topics in the weeks to come. Getting beyond the pretty was something we struggled with throughout the delegation, especially in our more official meetings.

But sometimes, I think, the pretty is profound. I'll leave you with this quote from our meeting with Arch Bishop Sebouh Sarkissian of the Armenian Christian Church of Tehran:

"Unless I see myself in you and unless you see you in me, we will continue to struggle."



I arrived back in Missouri early Tuesday evening! I was warmly greeted by my family just after I picked up my bags from the spinning carousel in the St. Louis airport. I talked the whole way home, through dinner, and for the rest of the evening.

I slept 8 hours, got up at 7 a.m.; drove to Columbia, unpacked, showered, walked downtown and went back to work yesterday! I stood at the Rush Hour Demonstration (4:15-5:45 every Wednesday at the corner of Broadway and Providence) with pride and with a deep appreciation for the freedom to hold a banner at a busy intersection--daring here, but much less daring than the same act would be in Tehran. I thought about how we don't use our voices enough. Later, I was happy for sunshine and for the blue sky as I walked home through a smog-free city.

Beginnings of blog posts come to my mind in nearly everything I do. My eyes fill with tears as I start to type the instances in the past 24 hours when I have traveled back to Iran in my mind. The first moments were in JFK airport on Tuesday afternoon.

We had said our brief goodbyes through hurried hugs and quick statements of appreciation in Terminal 1. And before I knew it, I was alone riding the SkyTrain to Terminal 8. After two weeks of traveling with over 20 people, I was alone with my bags. I walked through the airport in a daze. Standing in line at the American Airlines ticket counter--hoping to catch an earlier, direct flight to St. Louis on standby. The lady typed at the keyboard and she and her colleagues talked to one another in thick Brooklyn accents. I thought about the ticket counter in Tehran the night before. The printer for luggage tags jammed as mine was being printed, so I was "that" person who was holding up the whole line of anxious travelers. One of my fellow group members waited for me.

Back to New York: I said thank you to the lady working in the bathroom. And hello to the woman scrutinizing my passport at the security checkpoint. I had to take off my shoes and remove my ziplock bag of toiletries from my carry on bag. Things I didn't have to do for either of the two prior flights--international flights--that day.

I was riding one of those moving walkways through a tunnel of Samsung flat screen TVs playing an in-your-face advertisement. And I thought to myself "you are back in America." I almost said "salaam" to a passing stranger as I continued toward the gate. I missed having the attention that comes with being visibly different.

I saw a CNN headline about Bush's visit to the Middle East as I passed a TV in the corridor and my gut cringed in fear that it had something to do with Iran. I stopped, backtracked, watched for a moment and continued on.

At the gate, I moved restlessly from a sitting position on the floor to one in a chair. I went and bought a bottled water for $1.99 instead of the 3000 Rials or less (~$0.30) it would have cost in Iran. Back to the floor; then, to a chair; and another chair. I finally settled into a seat with CNN in view. I couldn't bare being alone, so I offered a peanut M&M to the man sitting next to me and a conversation about our recent international travels was born. Thank goodness. When I was called for the standby flight (!) I was thrilled, but disappointed that our conversation was cut short.

Yesterday, I walked to the Post Office in Columbia, Missouri and I almost crossed the street Iranian style! I laughed out loud as I imagined what American drivers would do if I just started walking across a busy street with traffic coming full blast. I remembered the first day in Tehran when Suad took us to Valiasr, the longest street in the Middle East, and we fearfully walked into oncoming traffic! "You just have to go," Suad said. By the end of the trip, we had almost gotten used to it. A smile.

I caught a young girl's eye in the Post Office and played hide-n-seek with her - just like I had numerous times in Iran.

Last night, I went shopping for food. I gave a strawberry to the boy who was with his mother and ahead of me in the checkout line. When I saw him drop the strawberry in the parking lot as he was opening the door to the car, I desperately rushed to give him another!

I woke up this morning and had flat bread, cheese and honey for breakfast--just like I had done so many times in tired, anticipatory mornings in the past two weeks. I traveled back to Hotel Howeyzeh's breakfast buffet in Tehran. Fresh tomatoes and diagonally cut cucumbers. Yogurt, mango nectar, raisins, dates, cheese, honey, and those fried eggs, which I never tried. I had a grapefruit and pealed it just the way I've learned from watching Iranians peal oranges and tangerines in the past two weeks.

I turned on the radio and listened to the NPR report about Bush's trip to Israel - in celebration of Israel's 60th. I listened with a critical ear. For the majority of Iranians--even Jewish Iranians--Israel is a sore topic. It is a symbol of US power and domination; a symbol of destruction, and disregard for the humanity of the Palestinian people. Is this simple? No, of course not. It there a right answer? I'm not sure. It's complicated, I know; but I have a new perspective on this conflict. ...A mention of Bush's speech and the articulation of a concern: Iran, Iran's "nuclear weapons," a "concern" Israel and the US share. "Nuclear weapons: a common concern for all of humanity," I thought.

And I went to the market square in Esfahan.
There, I saw that momma in her black chador as she and her child posed for a picture I was taking.

And I remembered the schoolboys who were interviewing Rudy and other tourists in an assignment aimed to improve their English.

I'll be writing a lot in the next several days. I'll do my best to catch you up on meetings we had while in Tehran, Shiraz, Esfahan and Qom. I'll try to drop some of the poetic, and give you something more concrete than emotions and memories of beautiful children. And I'll ask you to bear with me in this reporting, because for me it is about the children. It's about humanity and our future, and it's scary and emotional. As for the children...well, they pull my heartstrings.

(Here's something I just found on the Wikipedia entry titled "Nuclear Weapons and the United States": "The United States was the first country in the world to develop nuclear weapons, and is the only country to have used them in war against another nation. During the Cold War it conducted over a thousand nuclear tests and developed many long-range weapon delivery systems.[2] It maintains an arsenal of about 5,000 warheads to this day[1], as well as facilities for their construction and design, though many of the Cold War facilities have since been deactivated and are sites for environmental remediation."

Here are maps from the US International Nuclear Safety Center website of power reactor sites in the world; in the US; and in Iran. Does this information make nuclear power and nuclear weapons "right" or less concerning? No, of course not. But I think it's important to put it in context - to look at a fuller picture than the one we are often presented with. )



Here's something I typed up while we traveled from Esfahan to Tehran on the bus on Friday. We've had some great meetings in the past couple of days. I'll write more when I can. Tomorrow, we're hoping for a meeting in the morning and a trip to Qom in the evening before heading to the Tehran airport for our 4:00 a.m. flight to Frankfurt. I'll be back in Missouri late Tuesday evening.
-Lily

Today we are driving from Esfahan to Tehran. We spent the past four days in Shiraz and Esfahan. This morning, as we drove through the mountains on our way to Abyaneh Village, I contemplated whether or not to take pictures of the sights through the bus window. At first, I thought, “some beauty you just cannot capture.” But then I saw the doors for beehives in the sides of the mountains and I thought of all of you and changed my mind.

We flew to Shiraz on Sunday evening. Because of the trade sanctions, it was an older plane. And though we were safe, it was a pointed reminder of the impact of the existing economic war that the United States is waging on Iran. Unable to purchase parts for repair, domestic flights happen primarily on planes that are 20-30 years old, I’d say. I felt safe—having old seat cushions doesn’t really phase me.

On Monday morning, we got word about the increasing tension between the United States and Iran. We have had very little access to news on this trip and it will be interesting to catch up on the international political climate once I get home. Sometimes the thought of our government launching a military attack against Iran seems impossible—this country and the people we’ve met are too beautiful for anything bad to happen. But, I think it is safe to say that on Monday the group as a whole was feeling heavy with the brief and incomplete report we had from those who caught glimpses of headline news on CNN or on the Internets.

There is a sense of urgency among us—I think a feeling and fear that our work here will not be enough. That said, I have struggled some with the reality that the past four days have been mostly cultural and/or historical sightseeing days. The reverse of that, of course, is an appreciation for the opportunity to further understand the cultural history of Iran and Persia. History, culture, religion, belief, lifestyle and political ideologies are intertwined, not separate.

I believe the lack of education about Iran and Iran’s cultural inheritance is at least partly to blame for the ever increasing and more terrifying situation between our governments. The opportunity to experience the cultural and historical sights of this land are important in this process of understanding that is at the heart of FOR’s friendship delegations. This is what I remind myself when it crosses my mind that I might rather be in a meeting than at another museum. The people we meet along the way help me to realize the importance of remembering that the time is always now (Lizzie!) and that the moments—even the unexpected ones—make the world go round. All of that to say, I’m not going to have all the answers when I get back and I hope you’re not expecting that of me. But I will have stories and I will have pictures and I look forward to working together to make our elected officials—our representatives—realize how important this issue is for us.

On Monday, we traveled to the Nazsh-I Rustam Tombs and to Persepolis. These ancient sites were stunningly beautiful. The high school teachers we met at the tombs reminded me of my own elementary school teachers. They had the week off for teacher appreciation recognition and I gave each of them one of my cards in hopes that we can connect Iranian and American students in dialogue once I return.

Tuesday we were in Shiraz. We visited our first bazaar, our first Mosque in Iran and a historical garden, which has some of the tallest Cyprus trees in the world. The bazaar was wonderful and overwhelming! It was definitely a cultural experience. All the women in our group wore chadors in the mosque. It was the first time—and only, I suppose—that we had to be completely covered. A chador is a large piece of cloth—usually black—that many women wear over their clothes and head. It is open in the center, so at least one hand, and usually two, are always occupied with keeping it closed around the neck and waste. It is a form of modesty or hijab.
Tuesday evening, we drove from Shiraz to Esfahan.

We spent a considerable amount of time in Imam Square on Wednesday and Thursday. From what I remember, it is the second largest square in the world. I got up early on Wednesday morning and walked to the square with two other members of the delegation. There, we met a miniaturist, a carpet salesman and others. We also had what will likely be remembered as one of the most touching moments of the trip. While buying scarves from street vendor, we met three women. One of them spoke English. She was with her sister and her best friend. We showed our buttons that say "peace advocate" in Farsi and talked about the importance of understanding and dialogue. As our conversation was concluding, she started to make one final request, but before the words came she began cry. Through her tears she asked us to go back to the United States and tell people that Iranians are friendly and loving. The connection we shared in that moment is something I will carry with me forever. The fear, the understanding, the love. All on a Wednesday morning in a busy market square in Esfahan, Iran, among strangers. It’s there always, the love, the “we,” the hope for peace.

In Esfahan, we visited bridges the city is famous for; had a meeting with the Armenian Arch Bishop of Esfahan; and had a couple of presentations/dialogues with members of our group who have insight into Iranian culture and history. And, of course, there are always the informal encounters that happen as we’re walking in the street or as we’re on our way to a meeting. “Hello!” “Where are you from?” they call out to us and a conversation is born. We talk, we show them our peace advocate buttons and we try to express in one brief moment that we love them. We take pictures together and have as much of a conversation that is possible with our non-existent Farsi skills and their varying degrees of English fluency.

One woman in the delegation started saying “Please always remember that there is somebody in the United States who loves you” to people she encounters. There are somebodies all over this country who love us and believe in us and who understand that our government’s actions do not represent our beliefs and desires. This, of course, does not excuse our inaction. Nor does it relieve us of the incredible responsibility we have to demand diplomatic resolutions to international conflict. Being understood does not mean we are free of the responsibility to demand the truth from our media. Being loved does not mean the building of partnership is over. There is work to be done! I look forward to it!



Hello! This post will be brief as we're headed to a meeting in just a few minutes. We arrived back in Tehran last night after spending the day traveling by bus from Esfahan to Tehran with a stop at a beautiful mountain village in the middle. We spent Monday and Tuesday in Shiraz and Wednesday and Thursday in Esfahan. I had a wonderful time as we traveled to historical and cultural sites in each city. I have many stories of encounters and experiences of the past week and will try to post more detailed reflections this evening.

It's hard to believe the trip is nearly over. We will spend the next two days in Tehran. Several meetings have been organized for the delegation by the Center for Interfaith Dialogue. We're looking forward to a couple of media opportunities; the first of which is this afternoon with Mehr Media Agency. I will post more details about these meetings as I am able.

In hope!

Lily



Sometimes in the jet lag lull of the early afternoon, in the transition between meetings on busy city streets, or in preparation for group process meetings, I am reminded of a favorite question: "Why are you here?" I posed this question during the speech I gave at 1,000 STRONG, Columbia Peace Coalition's gathering to mark the fifth anniversary of the 2003 Invasion of Iraq. It is one of my favorite lines from that talk.

"Why are you here? Is it for your children? Your children's children? Is it for the media? Why are you here? Think about it an be proud." (I think I might be missing something, but you get the idea!)

Yesterday, we went to the mountains, which border Tehran to the north. I was there to have people smile at us and say, "Hello" and ask "Where are you from?" I was there to see somebody bungee jump. I was there to meet the two young adult women who stopped and talked with the group. And for the three fashionably dressed young men who posed for pictures. I was there to see the archery contest. I was there to smile.

In the afternoon, we traveled to the Sapir Charity Hospital. I was there to listen as the hospital Chief of Staff talked about how we don't make up for violence by creating more violence. I was there to listen as he spoke about the importance of a religious charity hospital caring for people of all religions. I was there to watch a newborn baby breastfed as a proud grandmother looked on. And I was there to tear up as I appreciated the beauty of new life. I was there to learn that there is a law in Iran that prohibits hospitals from turning emergency patients away. I was there to hear "There are problems but they are not impossible."

Last night I visited the family of one of my Columbia friends. I was there to walk into a birthday party in the main lobby and be invited for dinner. I was there to be loved and welcomed as family. I was there to listen to the 16 year-old daughter play the piano in their beautiful home in Tehran. And to meet the family's pet hamster. I was there to see marriage certificates. I was there to learn more about the Iranian education system. I was there to ask questions about everyday life in Iran.

This morning to the museums at Saad Abad Cultural Historical Complex, the previous home of Reza Shah. I was there to see the beautiful art of Mahmoud Farschian and to visit the Museum of Fine Arts and see both contemporary and classical Iranian art. I was there to deepen my appreciation for Iranian cultural history. I was there to see school children on field trips and to smile with joy as they practiced their English lessons with us: "What is your name?" "How are you?" "I love you!" "I love you very much." I was there to give an understanding look to their teacher as they excitedly ran down the hill to keep up with us. I was there to talk with a military man who said "It doesn't matter to me that you are Americans; to us we are all humans."

This afternoon, we had lunch at a beautiful restaurant. Later, we talked with children as they played. This afternoon we went to the Carpet Museum of Iran. After that, we came back to the hotel for a group meeting. And I've just finished a discussion with a smaller group of fellow diplomats about our reflections and our hopes for the rest of the trip; our concerns about the world and our hopes for the future--for our return back home.

Sometimes, In the jet lag lull of the early afternoon or in the transition between meetings on busy city streets or in preparation for group process meetings, I pause and ask myself "Why are you here Lily?" And I know it's for the human. We are here to say ten thousand times: "We came here for peace and we want the American people to know the truth about Iranians." We are here to show our buttons that read "Peace Advocate" in Farsi. And to deliver our poems about how we are all part of the same body.

I take pictures and remember they are for the people I will show them to--whomever they may be--when I return home. Just like all of us, I am here for the little moments and the big ones. We-you and me-are here for the laughter and tears. To learn. To ask questions. To challenge. But most of all, I believe, to do our best to love.

I finally have a genuine Iranian monteau (knee-length top) and two colorful scarves--one is blue with flowers and the other has red, white, black and grey stripes. They were lent to me by the woman who hosted me last night. (I've been holding out for a bargain at the market!) All women are "covered," in public, i.e. we cover our heads with a scarf; but for most women I've seen, that means having a scarf tied over your head and around your neck, but leaving your bangs exposed. Our plan is to travel to Shiraz tomorrow evening. I'll write more soon!

FOR Iran Blog

In addition to reading Lily's entries here, we thought that you might be interested in reading what others on her trip are writing. Fellowship of Reconciliation, the national organization sponsoring the peace delegation that Lily is a part of, has a blog for the delegation on their site that you can check out CLICK HERE.

We thought you might also be interested in seeing a picture of Lily's delegation, so we've copied this from the FOR blog here (Lily is third from the left in the top row):






After over 36 hours of travel (4 flights, layovers, etc.), I've arrived in Tehran!

We arrived at the airport around 2:00 a.m. local time; 6:30 p.m. Missouri time. We were fingerprinted (expected) and our passports and visas were checked as we attempted to enter Iran...for 2 hours (not expected). By 4:15 a.m., we had passed through the passport check, met our guide for the trip, loaded our bags to a blue pickup truck and our bodies to a big yellow bus (much unlike a school bus--my roommate and I dubbed it the long, yellow caterpillar, others thought it looked like a yellow submarine) with Celine Dion being blasted over the speakers.

The drive from the airport to the hotel was wonderful! I was exhausted, but utterly captivated as we drove through busy city streets! A man arranging pillows in a pillow-filled store front, a vendor preparing his books and newspapers for the early morning rush, small groups of people working at computers are among my favorite images of the early morning ride.

We arrived at the hotel and were asleep by 5:00 a.m. My roommate and I decided to get up in time for breakfast, so we got up at 9:15 a.m. and had a delicious breakfast complete with dates, mango nectar, yogurt and fresh cucumbers. We left the hotel at 11:00 a.m. for a meeting with Archbishop Sebouh Sarkissian, Primate of the Armenian Prelacy of Tehran. It was a nice meeting, in which we learned about efforts for interfaith dialogue that Archbishop Sarkissian is undertaking. He spoke often about the importance of getting at the humanity that is present in everything and connecting with people--even those we have political and religious differences with--on the understanding the of that connectedness of humanity. Important in dialogue is establishing commonalities, being frank about differences, and still working together for peace, justice, love. "We must put aside our weapons," he said "and use only the weapon. That of love and understanding."

It is now 1:45 p.m. We have the option to sleep some this afternoon before going to the bazaar to shop for clothing. But I will go, instead, with some of the members of the delegation to explore the city before gathering for dinner and shopping this evening.

Just as I expected, the people are beautiful and kind. And the sense of human connectedness and our responsibility to work on behalf of that connectedness overwhelms.

A man was holding his 3 or 4 year old daughter this morning as he crossed the busy street in front of our hotel. She had pigtails, and a cute outfit that reminded me of a Strawberry Shortcake outfit I might have worn 20 years ago. A woman dressed in jeans and a knee length top waited for a taxi with her briefcase for about 5 minutes around 10:40. Boys in school uniforms laughed as they exited a small store with midday snacks. The sun shines, the trees are green, the flowers are beautiful here, too.

I am not so far from home.


April 2008 May 2008